If you’re interested in charging electronics while riding, you’re probably already familiar with buffer batteries.
These small intermediary batteries provide a steady flow of power to your devices when your speed drops too low for consistent USB output – such as on steep climbs, or while stopped at traffic lights. This prevents devices from repeatedly gaining and losing charge (like smartphones) or shutting down completely, as can happen with some Garmin eTrex models.
In this article, we’ll take a closer look at buffer batteries, storage capacity, charging times, and dynamo chargers that feature integrated battery systems.
How Long Will A Battery Take To Charge?
To understand this section well, you may need to learn about volts, amps and watts HERE.
A typical 3-watt dynamo hub generates around 6 volts at 500 mA. After converting from AC to DC, this translates to roughly 5 V at 500 mA, or 2.5 watts. Over an hour of riding, that delivers about 500 mAh of charge.
For example, charging a 3000 mAh battery from empty would require about 6 hours of riding at 12 km/h on the fastest dynamo USB chargers, or around 17 to 18 km/h with slower dynamo chargers. Accounting for small losses in the charging circuitry, typically around 20%, this extends the total ride time to roughly 7.2 hours to fully charge the battery.
The same calculations apply to phone batteries. An iPhone SE with a ~1500 mAh battery would take about 3 hours, or 3.6 hours including circuitry losses. Larger batteries, like the Samsung S8’s 3000 mAh unit, would need around 7 hours or more.
Some advanced chargers use special capacitors to effectively double the charging power, halving the time needed to charge smartphones. Many of these also include built-in buffer batteries. Notable examples include the Cinq Plug5 Plus and Forumslader V6 USB chargers, which can achieve 4 or 5 watts of output at speeds as low as 17 to 20 km/h.
Pass-Through Batteries

Most buffer batteries will either charge themselves or deliver stored power to your device—but rarely do both at the same time.
Pass-through batteries are designed to send power directly from your dynamo hub to your device while simultaneously storing any surplus energy. In theory, this allows for smoother, more efficient charging while riding.
The reason many manufacturers avoid true pass-through functionality is that it can accelerate battery wear. Even so, most pass-through batteries are still rated for at least 500 full charge cycles (with two half charges counting as one full cycle).
It’s also worth noting that while “pass-through” is often listed on spec sheets, in practice the feature doesn’t always function as expected.
Battery Storage Losses
When energy is stored in a battery, it typically incurs a 15 to 20% storage loss. To minimise this inefficiency, it’s best to charge your devices directly from your USB charger whenever possible, or use a genuine pass-through battery so the power flows straight to your device first.
While it’s reassuring to have stored energy in reserve, those losses can add up over time. Losing the equivalent of an hour of charge on a five-hour ride may not seem dramatic at first—but over days or weeks of riding, it becomes significant.
Lipstick Buffer Batteries
Modern batteries are increasingly equipped with smarter circuitry to manage charging and reduce long-term degradation. But not all batteries are created equal – and not all of them are especially “smart.”
Ultra-distance riders like Jesse Carlsson and Sarah Hammond have been known to use inexpensive “lipstick” power banks to maintain a steady power supply to their Garmin eTrex GPS units. While there’s no guarantee that the cheapest batteries will be “dumb” enough to allow continuous pass-through-style behaviour, the chances are often surprisingly good. And at under $10 each, they can be worth experimenting with.
Check out Jesse and Sarah’s video on how to waterproof these cheap buffer batteries in their video HERE.
Variable Current Buffer Batteries

If basic lipstick batteries could be considered “dumb,” then variable-current buffer batteries are definitely the smart alternative.
A current-limiting buffer battery is purpose-built for dynamo hub charging, allowing you to select between preset charge rates (for example, 100, 400, or 900mA) depending on your riding speed.
The key advantage is that you can optimise the charge draw at very low speeds (around 6 to 8 km/h) where standard USB charging often struggles. This feature can also be useful when charging from solar panels in low-light conditions, where available current is limited.
At higher speeds, however, these batteries can become a bottleneck. Because they cap the charge rate at around 4.5 watts, they may restrict the output of modern dynamo chargers, many of which are capable of delivering 5 to 7 watts once you’re riding at roughly 20 km/h.
You can see the power graphs for different dynamo USB chargers HERE.
Soshine E4S Battery Kit
This buffer battery kit comes recommended by Velogical, a company known for its rim dynamo charging systems.
The E4S kit requires two 18650 Li-ion batteries (sold separately) to function. Velogical specifically recommends Samsung INR 18650-29E cells for optimal performance.
Before use, be sure to pre-charge the batteries with a standard USB charger using a Type-B plug.
Charging Regular Batteries
You can, of course, charge power banks without pass-through functionality.
Large-capacity batteries (5000mAh and above) are excellent for storing energy, but they can be harder to charge from a dynamo hub. Their higher internal resistance means they often require a stronger input current—around 1A—to begin charging efficiently. That’s easy to supply from a wall outlet, but much more challenging for a dynamo hub running at typical touring speeds. As a result, many 5000mAh+ batteries don’t perform particularly well when paired with hub-powered USB chargers.
If you’re riding consistently above 25 km/h, or using one of the more powerful USB chargers, it’s sometimes possible to charge batteries up to 10,000mAh. Even so, I’d generally recommend carrying two 5000mAh batteries instead, as they tend to charge more reliably and offer greater flexibility.
Dynamo Chargers With Integrated Pass-Through Batteries

As dynamo hub charging technology has evolved, more manufacturers are integrating buffer batteries directly into their USB chargers. This reduces cabling complexity and results in a much cleaner, more streamlined charging setup on the bike.
Examples of chargers with integrated buffer batteries include:
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Cinq Plug6 Plus (1100 mAh)
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Forumslader (2100 or 3000 mAh)
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NC-17 Appcon 3000 (3000 mAh)
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Lumi-Con P5 (5000 mAh)
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Busch & Müller USB Werk (300 mAh)
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ZZing (2000 mAh or 2700 mAh)
These integrated systems can be a tidy and practical solution, particularly for riders looking to minimise external battery packs and wiring.
My full list of dynamo chargers is HERE.
Buffer Battery Recommendations
Soshine E4S 18650 x2 Kit / 5700mAh
Cinq Smart Power Pack II / 3000mAh / 85g – €99 on Cinq
Lipstick Battery (I haven’t tested this battery, but it should do the trick) / 2600mAh / $9.99 on Amazon
Igaro also keeps a list of batteries with pass-through (click the link for the latest):
- Blitzwolf – BW-P3, BW-P5 (probably other models in this range)
- Miller – ML202 V4
- RavPower – Turbo+ RP-PB043
- Thrunite – C2
- Tomo – M2, M4 (probably other models in this range)
- Blackweb – 20,000mAh (Walmart, Adsa)
Check Out Some Of My Other Resources On Dynamo Systems, Dynamo Lights and USB Chargers




Great article Alee. I’ve had no end of trouble with my XT dynamo hub, Plug III and battery packs. No battery seems to charge, the L.E.D. just flashes which means it’s not working. I’m losing hope of (potentially!) living off-grid! It must be down to the battery packs I’ve tried as I have B&M dyno lights that work great. I’ve tried both a 2,000mAh and a 13,000mAh battery wth no luck. I’ve turned the lights off to ensure they aren’t sucking in power.
It could be an issue with your Plug III. Can you get your phone or GPS to charge at 20km/h with your lights off? A cheap USB LCD Voltmeter like this (http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/USB-LCD-Voltmeter-Voltage-Current-Amp-Meter-Charge-Power-Battery-Tester-Mobile-W-/322075169742?hash=item4afd2d13ce%3Ag%3A2kcAAOSw2GlXEERq) can help diagnose whether The Plug is making the right amount of power. If you’re getting the right numbers, it will be the batteries you’ve been using (they’re a bit of a gamble sometimes).
Do you have a wider range of cache battery suggestions suitable for cycling? The Goal Zero Flip models’ ‘flip’ charging port format doesn’t make them very suitable for use on a bicycle (e.g. particularly with Sinewave Reactor or Plug III). The Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus is a AA or AAA battery charger rather than a cache battery (although I presume it could be used as a cache battery, but it wouldn’t be a first choice for that purpose). The Powermonkey Explorer 2 looks needlessly bulky and heavy for cycling, although at least it should be weatherproof. The Cinq5 Smart Power Pack is a good compact cache battery (if pretty expensive) for cycling. We’ve been using a couple of these for 3 years, but my main criticism is that they are not very weatherproof, which seems to be a problem with the various generations of Cing5 Plug devices too. It is because I am becoming unhappy with the reliability of our Cinq5 SPPs that I’m now looking for alternatives. I’m loathed to buy another if Cinq5 can’t sort out the weatherproofing (and I carefully protect the USB ports from water). Of course, Anker and TechNet produce various cache batteries, and at a good price. However, it seems to be hit or miss whether any particular model allows ‘pass-through’ charging, and it’s often not stated either way in the product descriptions. Also, Anker and TechNet batteries aren’t designed for exposure to weather either. Any ideas about other suitable products would be appreciated.
The ones I’ve listed are tried and tested options in my bike community. I’ve heard whispers that the Patriot Fuel + 7800mAh (or 9000mAh) are a good batteries too for US $20-30. They’re available here: http://amzn.to/2haKRuq
An informative article. Thanks!
Is it possible to combine Alfine’s Di2 (or any other electronic shifting system) with a dynamo hub?
You can use the SM-BCR2 Di2 USB charger, but companies like kLite can also make a custom circuitry which removes the largish controller box with light indicators. My friend Jesse used kLite to build his dynamo Di2 charging setup: https://www.cyclingabout.com/video-trans-am-bike-race/
I have to admit, I used to think that the Alfine’s Di2 Motor Unit had its own small dynamo.
Hey Alee. Article. Quick question about the Goal Zero Flip batteries. I have a Flip 20 and like the battery, but charging can be such a pain with it. The simple USB charger is nice when plugging into a wall outlet, but difficult (or impossible) when plugging into a Plug III, for example. How do you connect yours to charge while riding? Thank you.
Do you find that as simple and reliable as the micro usb method that most batteries charge with? Micro USB are pretty easy to find internationally. Also micro usb charges lights and other devices, so it minimizes the amount of cords you have to carry while bikepacking. Thank you for your input. I’m trying to figure out if I should keep the Flip 20 or go with a different battery.
If you’re happy with the way your battery is performing, then just grab an extension cable. Shouldn’t add more than 30g to your setup.
You mention the Goal Zero Guide 10 Plus – any idea if this would work directly hooked up to a dynamo through the solar port? As it has a solar port, I wonder if it has some sort of regulator built into it? The specs of this port say Mini solar port (input): 6.5V, up to 1.1A – but how is that achieved if you just plug a solar panel directly into it? I can only think there must be some sort of regulator built into the unit, thus giving me hope I can directly connect it to a dynamo. What do you think?
The specs would indicate that it’s possible. I’m not too sure in practice though – let us know how you go!
I bought the goal zero flip 20 as a result of this article. Finally i thought to have a solution for my problem of failing charge at low speed and the flipping on and off from my Iphone. But at low speed my Iphone keeps flipping on and of because of charging/not charging. I use the plug with a Son dynamo on my Idworx bicycle. Although the goal zero is a pass through battery, it probably passes through the charging power directly to the device and not via the battery when connected. So it CANNOT be used as a buffer to prevent the problem. Nice powerbank, but no solution for the problem. Still looking for a solution 🙁
Interesting. They must have changed something with the battery because my Flip 20 works as I described. I assume your battery has a decent charge before you plug it in?
Yes, fully charged. It is strange indeed. The battery charges with the plug, the Iphone also, so all cables are ok. It just doesn’t charge the battery with priority, but the Iphone. When i take the phone off it charges the battery. When the speed drops the battery doesn’t take the charging over. Maybe it depends on the type of smartphone and the amperage it needs?